Fashion & Style Medium ⚡ 10 Questions ⏱️ ~6 Mins +100 XP

The Anatomy of a Garment

Clothes are made from flat cloth and worn on a body that is anything but flat. These are the techniques that bridge the gap.

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About this topic

Every garment starts as a flat sheet and has to end up wrapped round a set of curves. Almost all of dressmaking is the answer to that problem: darts fold away the surplus, seams shape the pieces, and cutting on the bias exploits the fact that woven cloth stretches diagonally even when it will not stretch along the thread. The vocabulary is old and mostly practical. A selvedge is the self-finished edge the loom produces. Interfacing is the hidden stiffening that keeps a collar from collapsing. A French seam exists because sheer fabric shows everything, including the inside. Knowing the terms makes the difference between a well-made garment and a cheap one visible from across a room.

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The Anatomy of a Garment: all 10 questions and answers

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  1. 1Cutting fabric on the bias means cutting at what angle to the grain?

    • A Parallel to it
    • B Ninety degrees
    • C Fifteen degrees
    • D Forty-five degrees Correct

    Answer: D. Forty-five degrees

    Why: Cloth cut this way stretches and falls close to the body without needing extra seams. Madeleine Vionnet built her 1930s eveningwear almost entirely on the technique.

  2. 2What is a dart in dressmaking?

    • A A decorative row of parallel tucks
    • B The narrow strip that finishes a neckline
    • C A folded, stitched wedge that shapes flat cloth to the body Correct
    • D A reinforcing stitch at the corner of a pocket

    Answer: C. A folded, stitched wedge that shapes flat cloth to the body

    Why: They take up surplus fabric at the bust, waist or shoulder blade. Without them a garment cut from flat cloth would simply hang straight down.

  3. 3The selvedge of a woven fabric is what?

    • A The loose threads left after hemming
    • B The finished edge running along the length of the roll Correct
    • C The raw cut edge across the width
    • D The reverse side of the weave

    Answer: B. The finished edge running along the length of the roll

    Why: It forms where the weft turns back at the edge of the loom, so it does not fray. Denim woven on narrow shuttle looms is sold on the strength of it.

  4. 4A lapel is which part of a jacket?

    • A The folded-back front edge below the collar Correct
    • B The opening at the wrist
    • C The pleat at the centre back
    • D The lining behind a pocket

    Answer: A. The folded-back front edge below the collar

    Why: Notch, peak and shawl are the three usual shapes. The buttonhole cut into the left one survives from when the collar could be turned up and fastened across the throat.

  5. 5Herringbone describes what?

    • A A knitted rib used on cuffs
    • B A method of pleating a skirt
    • C A double row of buttons
    • D A weave of short rows slanting in alternating directions Correct

    Answer: D. A weave of short rows slanting in alternating directions

    Why: It is a broken twill, named after the skeleton of the fish. Unbroken twill running in one direction is what gives denim its diagonal lines.

  6. 6What does a garment's hem refer to?

    • A The stiffening inside a collar
    • B The band at the waist
    • C The turned and stitched lower edge Correct
    • D The seam joining the front to the back

    Answer: C. The turned and stitched lower edge

    Why: Turning the edge under stops the cloth fraying and adds a little weight. That extra weight is part of why a well-hemmed skirt hangs properly.

  7. 7In tailoring, what is interfacing used for?

    • A To mark the cutting lines on cloth
    • B To stiffen and support areas such as collars and cuffs Correct
    • C To line the sleeves for warmth
    • D To join two pieces without stitching

    Answer: B. To stiffen and support areas such as collars and cuffs

    Why: It sits hidden between the outer cloth and the facing. Traditional tailors use woven horsehair canvas across the whole front of a jacket.

  8. 8Which fibre comes from the fleece of a goat rather than a sheep?

    • A Cashmere Correct
    • B Merino
    • C Lambswool
    • D Shetland

    Answer: A. Cashmere

    Why: It is combed from the fine undercoat in spring. A single animal yields only a few ounces a year, which is most of the explanation for the price.

  9. 9Why is a grainline marked on every piece of a sewing pattern?

    • A So the pieces are cut in the correct order
    • B To show where the seam allowance ends
    • C To indicate the right side of the fabric
    • D So each piece is cut in the same direction as the fabric threads Correct

    Answer: D. So each piece is cut in the same direction as the fabric threads

    Why: Cloth behaves differently along the warp, across the weft and on the diagonal. Ignoring the marking makes the finished garment twist round the body as it is worn.

  10. 10A French seam achieves what?

    • A A join made without any stitching
    • B A stretchy seam suited to knitted fabric
    • C A seam with all raw edges enclosed inside it Correct
    • D A seam that can be let out later

    Answer: C. A seam with all raw edges enclosed inside it

    Why: The pieces are sewn twice, the second row wrapping and hiding the first. It suits sheer fabrics, where an ordinary seam allowance would show through.

Read alongside this quiz

Where English came from

A Germanic language wearing a French coat and carrying a Latin dictionary. Why English spelling is a mess with reasons.

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